Kit for preparing cuajada in the traditional way // Exhibition at the Estella Tourist Office

Kizkilurrin

As it passes through Navarre, the Pilgrim's Route to Santiago de Compostela bears witness to the mark that each stage leaves on the palate of those who visit it. The territory of Navarre has a wide variety of traditional dishes that allow the pilgrim to delve into the local culture. The walker is able to return to the territory of Navarre thanks to the aroma, flavour or presentation of a dish previously tasted. Every time the individual is exposed to these stimuli, the taste memory is activated, evoking various emotions and feelings associated with experiences. Thus, food transcends materiality and the simple routine practice of eating, becoming a spiritual symbol.

In this sense, cuajada is a dish that identifies Navarre, specifically in the northern mountainous area. Amidst green meadows, latxas sheep and isolated farmhouses, a whole gastronomic culture is born, both tangible and intangible, of the cuajada. This strong link between the product and the rural environment is due to its pastoral origins. To this day, some farmhouses in the Baztán Valley and Ulzama still strive to maintain this Navarrese tradition.

The production of curd has left behind a whole material heritage linked to this activity. Of particular note is the kaiku, a vessel indigenous to the north of Navarre, made from birch wood in a single piece, with an oblique axis, a single handle, and with the top part more open than the base. It is traditionally used to produce curd. The shepherds milked the latxas sheep and heated the milk in the kaiku, placing incandescent stones (esni arriak or milk stones) inside, which gave it that toasted taste (kizkilurrin). When the milk boiled, the stones were removed and the milk was left to cool until it reached 37-39º. The animal rennet, from the stomach of the newborn lamb, was then added and left to settle until the curd was obtained.

Taking into account the ability of certain foods to transport the consumer to lived experiences, as well as the strong link of the curd with the rural environment of Navarre, a kit is designed to make curd while maintaining its traditional flavour. In this way, pilgrims can once again travel through the Navarrese countryside through the palate.

The final product consists of a container, a lid, an iron and a magnetic block. The container is used to prepare the curd and the lid is used to put it in the fridge to keep it once it has been prepared. The iron is used to heat the milk until it reaches the temperature of lactose burning to give the kikzkilurrin flavour. The magnetic block is used to hold the iron to the container.

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